The Carl Cardigan Crochet Pattern

I love the look of oversized V-neck button up cardigans. There’s just something about them that I find so appealing! They give me such comforting “grandpa” vibes haha. I knew I had to make one but put my own trendy spin on it. The Carl Cardigan is my cropped and a bit more girly version of this!

The Carl Cardigan is worked in separate panels from the bottom up. When you break it down into each piece tackling this sweater is a breeze. I used the same stitch throughout and have very beginner friendly shaping. I used Feels Like Butta which is one of my favorite soft yarns. It’s very smooth to work with and frogs back easily if you make a mistake!

I know some of us prefer to have our cardigans longer instead of cropped. Good news, it is super easy to make this longer! Just add as many rows as you would like to the back panel (in multiples of 2). Then, when you make the front panels, add the same amount of rows before you start decreasing! Remember, you will need extra yarn!

You might recognize the ribbing technique around this cardigan. I did the cuffs from The Pemberly Pullover the same way! You will be working the trim of the cardigan directly off the sides of the front panel. It might look a little intimidating at first, but when it comes down to it, you are just slip stitching to the panels as you go! If you are new to this technique be sure to check out my video tutorial where I show you exactly how to do it.

LINKS:

Description: The cropped “grandpa” style cardigan you didn’t know you needed! Worked up with beginner friendly stitches and shaping, you’ll have it done in no time! Perfect to layer over dresses or high waisted jeans!

Materials:

  • Worsted (4) Weight Yarn, Feels Like Butta in “Charcoal”, 5(6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) skeins or 1020(1090, 1145, 1220, 1310, 1375, 1450, 1530, 1600)

  • G/6- 4.25mm Crochet Hook

  • Yarn Needle

  • Scissors

  • Measuring Tape

  • Stitch Markers (2)

  • 3 Buttons- 1 1/8”/28mm (optional)

Gauge:

4X4”= 15 Dc by 9 Rows

Sizes:

All sizes are written as follows- XS(S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Finished Measurements:

The Carl Cardigan Crochet Pattern

The Carl Cardigan Crochet Pattern

Notes:

  • This cardigan is worked in separate panels from the bottom up.

  • The Ch 2 and Ch 1 at the beginning of the rows do not count as a stitch.

  • The numbers in parenthesis at the end of the rows are the stitch counts for all the sizes.

  • The numbers in parenthesis at the beginning of each row are the row counts for all the sizes.

  • You can easily make your cardigan longer by adding rows where indicated in the pattern. Be sure you add the same amount of rows to both the back and front panels. Take into account you will need more yardage than what is listed.

Video Link:

Check out the full video tutorial here!

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

RS- Right Side

Ch- Chain

Fdc- Foundation Double Crochet

Dc- Double Crochet

St- Stitch

Dc2tog- Double Crochet 2 Together (decrease)

Sl St- Slip Stitch

Sc- Single Crochet

BLO- Back Loop Only

Fsc- Foundation Single Crochet

Inc- Increase (work 2 stitches into same space)

Pattern:

Back Panel-

Row 1(RS): 70(78, 84, 92, 98, 106, 114, 120, 126) Fdc, turn. (70(78, 84, 92, 98, 106, 114, 120, 126) Dc)

Rows 2-36(36, 38, 40, 42, 42, 44, 46, 48): Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn.

Tie off. Note-If you want a longer length cardigan, add more rows here in multiples of two before tying off. You will need to add the same amount of rows to the front panels, before the decrease section. Take into account the extra yardage needed.

Front Panel 1-

Row 1(RS): 32(36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 54, 57, 60) Fdc, turn. (32(36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 54, 57, 60) Dc

Rows 2-20(20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 28, 30, 32): Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn.

Note- if you added more rows to your back panel for a longer length cardigan, add the same amount here before moving on.

Row 21(21, 23, 25, 27, 27, 29, 31, 33): Ch 2, Dc2tog, 1 Dc in each remaining St across, turn. (31(35, 38, 42, 45, 49, 53, 56, 59) Dc)

Row 22(22, 24, 26, 28, 28, 30, 32, 34): Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across until 2 Sts remain, Dc2tog, turn. (30(34, 37, 41, 44, 48, 52, 55, 58) Dc)

Rows 23(23, 25, 27, 29, 29, 31, 33, 35)-36(36, 38, 40, 42, 42, 44, 46, 48): Repeat the previous 2 rows, your stitch count will decrease by 1 St with each row. You will end with 16(20, 23, 27, 30, 34, 38, 41, 44 Dc)

Tie off, leave a long tail to seam front panel shoulder to back panel.

Front Panel 2-

Row 1(RS): 32(36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 54, 57, 60) Fdc, turn. (32(36, 39, 43, 46, 50, 54, 57, 60) Dc

Rows 2-20(20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 28, 30, 32): Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn.

Note- if you added more rows to your back panel for a longer length cardigan, add the same amount here before moving on.

Row 21(21, 23, 25, 27, 27, 29, 31, 33): Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across until 2 Sts remain, Dc2tog, turn. (31(35, 38, 42, 45, 49, 53, 56, 59) Dc)

Row 22(22, 24, 26, 28, 28, 30, 32, 34): Ch 2, Dc2tog, 1 Sc in each remaining St across, turn. (30(34, 37, 41, 44, 48, 52, 55, 58) Dc)

Rows 23(23, 25, 27, 29, 29, 31, 33, 35)-36(36,38, 40, 42, 42, 44, 46, 48): Repeat the previous 2 rows, your stitch count will decrease by 1 St with each row. You will end with 16(20, 23, 27, 30, 34, 38, 41, 44 Dc)

Tie off, leave a long tail to seam front panel shoulder to back panel.

Sleeves (make 2)-

Cuff-

Row 1: 6 Fsc, turn. (6 Sc)

Rows 2-32(32, 34, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40): Ch 1, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across, turn. (6 Sc)

Do not tie off. Rotate your work, we will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the sleeve into the ends of the rows of the cuff.

Row 1: Ch 2, 1 Dc into the end of each of the rows of the cuff, turn. (32(32, 34, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40) Dc)

Row 2: Ch 2, Inc, 1 Dc in each St across until last St remains, Inc, turn. (34(34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 40, 42) Dc)

Row 3: Repeat Row 2. (36(36, 38, 38, 40, 40, 42, 42, 44) Dc)

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn.

Row 5: Repeat Row 2. (38(38, 40, 40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 46)  Dc)

Row 6: Repeat Row 2. (40(40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 46, 46, 48) Dc)

Row 7: Repeat Row 4.

Row 8: Repeat Row 2. (42(42, 44, 44, 46, 46, 48, 48, 50) Dc)

Row 9: Repeat Row 2. (44(44, 46, 46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52) Dc)

Row 10: Repeat Row 4.

Row 11: Repeat Row 2. (46(46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 54) Dc)

Row 12: Repeat Row 2. (48(48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 54, 54, 56) Dc)

Row 13: Repeat Row 4.

Row 14: Repeat Row 2. (50(50, 52, 52, 54, 54, 56, 56, 58) Dc)

Row 15: Repeat Row 2. (52(52, 54, 54, 56, 56, 58, 58, 60) Dc)

Row 16: Repeat Row 4.

Row 17: Repeat Row 2. (54(54, 56, 56, 58 58, 60, 60, 62) Dc)

Row 18: Repeat Row 2. (56(56, 58, 58, 60, 60, 62, 62, 64) Dc)

Row 19: Repeat Row 4.

Size XS stop here and move to your size section below.

Row 20: Repeat Row 2. (—(58, 60, 60, 62, 62, 64, 64, 66) Dc)

Row 21: Repeat Row 2. (—(60, 62, 62, 64, 64, 66, 66, 68) Dc)

Row 22: Repeat Row 4.

Size S stop here and move to your size section below.

Row 23: Repeat Row 2. (—(—, 64, 64, 66, 66, 68, 68, 70) Dc)

Sizes M & L stop here and move to your size section below.

Row 24: Repeat Row 2. (—(—, —, —, 68, 68, 70, 70, 72) Dc)

Row 25: Repeat Row 4.

Size XL stop here and move to your size section below.

Row 26: Repeat Row 2. (—(—, —, —, —, 70, 72, 72, 74) Dc)

Row 27: Repeat Row 2. (—(—, —, —, —, 72, 74, 74, 76) Dc)

Row 28: Repeat Row 4.

Sizes 2X, 3X & 4X stop here and move to your size section below.

Row 29: Repeat Row 2. (—(—, —, —, —, —, —, —, —, 78) Dc)

Size 5X stop here and move to your size section below.

Size XS Only-

Rows 20-35: Repeat Row 4.

Size S Only-

Rows 23-35: Repeat Row 4.

Size M Only-

Rows 24-35: Repeat Row 4.

Size L Only-

Rows 24-34: Repeat Row 4.

Size XL Only-

Rows 26-33: Repeat Row 4.

Size 2X Only-

Rows 29-33: Repeat Row 4.

Sizes 3X & 4X Only-

Rows 29-32: Repeat Row 4.

Size 5X Only-

Rows 30-31: Repeat Row 4.

All Sizes- Tie off and leave a tail long enough to sew your sleeve to your sweater.

Join Panels-

Place your front and back panels together, RS facing. Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panels to the back panel at the shoulders (I used my hook and slip stitched across). Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.

Next, lay your sweater out in front of you RS down. Using the same joining process, we will be attaching the sleeves to the cardigan. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to keep your sleeve in place as you join.

Finally, fold your cardigan so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the cardigan.

Tie off, and repeat on the other side.The Carl Cardigan Crochet PatternThe Carl Cardigan crochet pattern

Add Ribbing Trim-

With your cardigan RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom inner corner of the left front panel (right panel when worn). We are going to be working the ribbing directly off of the sweater. When you are slip stitching to the sides of the front panels you don’t have an actual stitch to work into, instead you will be slip stitching into the sides of the rows. Use your best judgment on where to place your hook. I found that I worked approximately 2 slip stitches for every row. If you are adding the optional buttons, you also need to decide where to place your button holes. I placed my first button hole 1.5” up from the bottom hem. Then, I placed my second 2 button holes approximately 3.5” apart. Depending on the size you are making, you might want to adjust where you are placing your buttons. I recommend laying your buttons out on top of your sweater, before you begin the ribbing and decide how many inches apart you want them. When you reach that point, replace the 6 Sc across with [2 Sc, Ch 2, Sk 2, 2 Sc]. When you work the next row above it, work your 6 Sc (BLO) as normal, working the center 2 Sc into the back loops of the chains. This creates one button hole.

Ch 7

Row 1: Work 1 Sc into the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across back towards the sweater for a total of 6 Sc. Sl St 1 time to the next unworked Sp of the sweater, turn. (6 Sc)

Row 2: (do not start with a ch) 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across, turn. (6 Sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across, 1 Sl St into the next unworked Sp of the sweater, then work 1 more Sl St to the next Sp after that, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 & 3 all the way up the first side of the cardigan, don’t forget to place your 3 button holes evenly spaced on this side as noted above. When you reach the back neckline continue repeating rows 2 & 3 by working your slip stitches into the Dc stitches of the back panel. When you reach the next front panel, continue the same process all the way down to the bottom corner. Finish with a final Sl St into the corner and tie off. If you need assistance with this section be sure to check out the video tutorial linked above.

Final Touches-

Lay your cardigan out, smoothing the front panels so that the ribbing is overlapping. If you are adding buttons, sew them on where the button holes line up. I recommend using wooden buttons (not included in the kit) but if you don’t have any, here is a quick crochet button option below.

Button-

Ch 2

Round 1: 6 Sc into first Ch made, Sl St to the first St to join. (6 Sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, Inc in each St around, Sl St to join. (12 Sc)

Round 3: Ch 1, Inc in each St around, Sl St to join. (24 Sc)

Tie off, use the tail of yarn to sew the button to your cardigan.

Weave in all ends.

The Carl Cardigan Crochet Pattern

If you like this cardigan pattern then be sure to check out some of my other ones too!

 

 

CODE: THECARL

About The Author

Rachel Misner