This crochet super scarf is sure to keep you, your spouse or even your older kids and teens warm whatever the weather throws at you this winter! Because it is just over 9 feet long, you can wrap the crochet super scarf multiple times, or even worn as a hooded scarf with some modifications included in the notes section. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.
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With a little convincing I got my 12 year old camera-shy son to model for me, and it could be because I’m his mom (I’m allowed to have biased opinions, right?), but I think he looks very fashionable in this super scarf. He even styled it himself, and tried to pose like I do–the little ham! You know there’s a big cheesy, dimpled grin under that scarf. Aren’t kids great?
- Make it a set with the Snow Country Ski Beanie pattern which matches this scarf.
Free Crochet Super Scarf Pattern for Winter
Winter is almost over, unless you live in the northern part of the US or Canada, in which case you may have another month or so of snowy weather to contend with. There’s no excuse for staying indoors though with a super scarf like this to keep you cozy! I used Red Heart With Love which is soft and warm, and the thick, double layer of criss-crossed diamond stitches make it even warmer.
The most tricky thing to crochet in this super scarf pattern are the diamond stitches. Most of the time the stitch will be worked in two parts as a treble crochet 2 together. You are also crocheting this stitch along two different rows, placing the treble crochet stitches two rows below where you are working the single crochet stitches. Take the scarf pattern one comma at a time if you’re confused and that should help.
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Difficulty:
Intermediate
Materials Needed:
5.5mm (I) hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge
775-800 yards of #4 worsted weight Red Heart With Love in “Pewter”
scissors
yarn needle
measuring tape
Stitches Used:
sl st = slip stitch
ch= chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog = front post treble crochet 2 together
st/sts = stitch/stitches
Additional Terms:
-Crab Stitch (also known as reverse single crochet or “rsc”). Begin forming this stitch as you would make a normal single crochet. However, at the end, you move backward, working your next crab stitch into the previous stitch, and not the “next stitch” (ahead). If you get stuck, check out this helpful video from Moogly.
Working in the 3rd Loop of hdc – Instructions: Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back and you should see another “V” made by the “yarn over”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”. This is called the 3rd loop. When you are working in rows, this 3rd loop will be facing you after you turn!
WS = wrong side
RS = right side
Gauge:
11 hdc stitches in 4”
Measurements:
Approximately 9′ long, including fringe, by 9″ wide
Additional Notes:
-Ch 1 at the beginning of a row is not counted as a stitch, ch 2 is counted as a stitch
-The crab stitch edging is optional, but will give the crochet super scarf a more finished, professional look. Some people may find their edge is more even when they go down a hook size or two for this step.
-This scarf can be made into a hooded scarf! When you’re done, fold your scarf in half, and sew the back edges together down about 12 inches to create a “hood”.
-This scarf can also be turned into an afghan! Start at row 1, then once you get to Row 21 repeat rows 5-21 until your afghan is the length (width) you want, and then finish with rows 22 and 23. Add the edging of your choice once you’re done.
-So maybe you don’t need a 9′ long scarf? If you want to adjust the length: this crochet super scarf pattern is worked in multiples of 12+1, (plus one for the first row’s turning chain)
-If you can’t find Red Heart With Love yarn locally, Red Heart Super Saver, Hobby Lobby’s I Love this Yarn, and Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice should be fairly close substitutes.
Snow Country Crochet Super Scarf Pattern (US Terms):
Click here to purchase an ad-free, print-optimized PDF of this pattern on LoveCrafts
OR
Pick up the printable version of this pattern on Etsy instead
Chain 254,
Row 1 (RS): sc in second ch from hook, sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 2 (WS): sc in each st across, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of next row), turn. (253)
Row 3 (RS): hdc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Here’s where you will start to make your first “ridge” texture along the front. Working in the 3rd loop (or “yarn over”) in this next row pushes the top of the stitch forward to the front of the scarf. Since you are working in rows, and since row 4 in considered the “wrong side” of the scarf, the top of the stitch will actually be pushed away from you, but you’ll see it when you start crocheting the shell stitch in row 5.
Row 4 (WS): working in the 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st across, place final sc of row in the top of the ch-2 from the prev row, ch 1, turn. (253)
In rows 5 and 6 you will be crocheting the shell stitch.
Row 5 (RS): sc in first st, *sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * across, on final repeat omit sl st and sc instead, ch 1, turn. (42 shells, 2 sc)
Row 6 (WS) : 3 dc in first sc, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st, *sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (this will be the sl st between the shells), sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; Repeat from *across, when you get to the end of the row work 3 dc in final sc, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of next row), turn. (41 shells, 2 half-shells)
Row 7 (RS): hdc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 8 (WS): working in the 3rd loop of the hdc from previous row, sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
In rows 9-15 you will be working the diamond stitch. You will be working across two different rows at the same time in rows 11, 13, and 15. The design you create in these steps should show up on the front of the scarf along with the ridges created earlier by working sc sts in the 3rd loop of the hdc sts from rows 3 and 7.
Row 9 (RS): sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 10 (WS): dc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 11 (RS): FPtr around the 2nd sc of row 9, sc in next 3 sts. FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same sc in row 9 that you just worked first FPtr around, move forward 3 sts in row 9, place second leg of FPtr2tog around 4th sc, sc in next 3 sts of current row, *FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same sc in row 9 that you worked last leg of prev FPtr2tog around, skip forward 3 sts in row 9, place second leg of FPtr2tog around 4th sc, sc in next 3 sts of current row; repeat from * across, when you get to last stitch in row, FPtr around the last FPtr2tog leg you made, before you finish the FPtr, when there are 2 loops left on your hook, insert hook into last st of row, YO, pull through all remaining loops, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 12 (WS): dc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 13 (RS): sc in each of the next 2 sts, FPtr2tog, placing first leg around top of first FPtr from row 11, place second leg around next FPtr2tog from row 11. *sc in each of the next 3 sts, FPtr2tog placing first leg around the top of the FPtr2tog in row 11 that you just came off of, place the second leg of the FPtr2tog around the next FPtr2tog from row 11; repeat from * across, sc in final 2 sts of row, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 14 (WS): dc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 15 (RS): FPtr around first FPtr2tog of row 13, sc in next 3 sts. FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same post stitch in row 13 that you just worked first FPtr around, move forward 3 sts in row 13, place second leg of FPtr2tog around next post st, sc in next 3 sts of current row, *FPtr2tog, placing first leg around same post stitch in row 13 that you worked last leg of prev FPtr2tog around, skip forward 3 sts in row 13, place second leg of FPtr2tog around next post st, sc in next 3 sts of current row; repeat from * across, when you get to last stitch in row, FPtr around the last FPtr2tog leg you made, before you finish the FPtr, when there are 2 loops left on your hook, insert hook into last st of row, YO, pull through all remaining loops, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 16 (WS): sc in each st across, ch 2 (counts as first hdc st of next row), turn. (253)
Row 17 (RS): hdc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Row 18 (WS): working in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
In rows 19 and 20 you will be crocheting the shell stitch again.
Row 19 (RS): sc in first st, *sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * across, on final repeat put a sc at the end instead of a sl st, ch 1, turn. (42 shells, 2 sc)
Row 20 (WS): 3 dc in first sc, sk 2 sts, sl st in the next, *sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (this will be the sl st between the shells), sk 2 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * across, when you get to the end of the row work 3 dc in final sc, ch 2 (counts as first hdc of next row), turn. (41 shells, 2 half-shells)
Row 21 (RS): hdc in each st across, ch 1 turn. (253)
Row 22 (WS): working in 3rd loop of hdc, sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Rows 23-24 (RS, WS): sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (253)
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Working the scarf ends:
Note: If you do not want to put fringe on the end, simply attach the yarn to the end and do 2 or 3 rows of sc, then fasten off
Attach yarn to one end of scarf, with right side (RS) facing you,
Row 1: work 27 sc across end, ch 1, turn. (27)
Row 2: sc in first st, ch 2, sk st, *sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk st; repeat from * across, sc in final st, ch 1, turn. (9 ch-2 sps, 18 sc)
Row 3: sc in first st, *3 sc in ch-2 sp, sl st in next st, sk st; repeat from *across, sc in final sc of row.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
Repeat this sequence on the other end of the scarf.
Attaching the fringe to your crochet scarf
Loop 6 24” pieces of fringe through each hole on the ends. If you want shorter fringe, feel free to cut 12″ or 18″ lengths. Repeat this section at the other end of the scarf.
Crochet Crab Stitch Edging (Optional):
Top row: Working along long edge of scarf with right side (RS) facing you, attach yarn to top edge of scarf, crab stitch along the edge.
Fasten off when you get to the end.
Bottom row: Attach yarn to bottom edge of the scarf, crab stitch along that edge.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
If you liked this scarf pattern, why not have a look at my hat patterns!
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PATTERN TERMS AND CONDITIONS:
You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!
This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies.
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Anita says
Hi Kirsten, thank you so much for this pattern.❤️ I’m new in crocheting use to be a knitting girl but the last 10 years I didn’t make anything from yarns. When I googled for a scarf pattern and I saw yours and fell in love with it immediately 😃 It was a huge project for me as a newy but I did it!
I finished now this scarf, used a lovely blue shiny yarn. Hope my sister will be delighted to her birthday present 😊
Kirsten says
Hi Anita,
Your scarf sounds gorgeous! I’m sure your sister will love it! 🥰
Nancy says
Hello. I’m confused! Is it gonna be crocheted from its length or width?
And after chaining 254, how much should it measures?
Kirsten says
This scarf is worked lengthwise. It should be 7 ft long before the fringe is added. Your starting chain may be a little bit off that measurement though. Doing a gauge swatch may be helpful if you want to make sure you are going to end up with the same length of scarf as I did. 😊
Holly K says
Thank you so much for this pattern! I made it as a present for someone and it came out beautifully (also learned a new stitch!)
Kirsten says
You’re welcome! I’m glad your scarf turned out well!
Wendy thomas says
Omg! This was such a joy to make! Great instructions. I am so proud of my gorgeous scarf. Thank you for sharing your talent!
Kirsten says
You’re welcome! I’m glad you love your new scarf, Wendy!
Lee says
Thank you for this beautiful scarf pattern. I just finished this, a gift for my sister in the mallard color. It turned out beautifully. I shortened it a bit using 181 stitches per row vs your 253 stitches. I think she’s going to love it.
Kirsten says
You’re welcome! I’m so happy the scarf for your sister turned out well! 😁
Kim says
I’m having a little trouble with r4. I’ve seen different 3rd loops. Is yours in front of me or the back 3rd loop?
Kirsten says
It is the 3rd loop at the back of the stitch, however, when you’re working in rows the loop at the back will be facing you. 😊 I’ve also covered this in the “additional terms” section. I hope that helps!
Judy says
I absolutely loved making this scarf! It was my first crochet project and it turned out gorgeous! Thank you for the pattern!
Kirsten says
You’re welcome! I’m so glad you loved how the scarf turned out, Judy!
Freya says
Thank you so much for this wonderful pattern. I so appreciate it. It turned out beautifully!
Kirsten says
You’re welcome! I’m glad you’re loving it, Freya!
Victoria says
Hello! Thank you for sharing such a beautiful pattern. I seem to have gotten stuck on Row 13 and was hoping I could ask for some insight! As I’ve been progressing with completing the upper half of the diamond shapes, I start to notice that the further into the row I go, the more and more bunched up it gets. It seems like the 3 sc are not enough to cover the amount of ground needed to bring the hook to where it needs to be to crochet the FPtr2tog stitches. Is it supposed to be doing that? If not, would you happen to know what I’ve been doing wrong?
In order to remedy the situation I’ve started doing 4 sc instead of 3 and that seems to have kept it from bunching up as strongly but now I’m worried that it’s going to interfere with the shape of the diamonds to be continued in Row 15. It’s also still creating this kind of wave texture at the top and I’m not entirely sure if it should be looking like that either.
Please let me know how I can better approach this and thank you for your time!
Kirsten says
Are you making sure to skip the stitch where the tr2tog would go? If you don’t leave an empty space for that stitch it could cause your scarf to bunch up. I hope that helps!
Victoria says
Thank you for such a quick response, it appears that was indeed the problem! I’ve undone my work and tried the row over again and now it’s coming along much easier and isn’t bunching up 🙂 Thank you so much!!
Kirsten says
You’re welcome! I’m glad that solved your issue! 😊
Victoria says
Hello! I’m back with another question. I took a bit of a break on this scarf since early December after I got to row 15 – but seem to have run into another issue surrounding extra stitches.
I’ve been skipping the stitch where the tr2tog is meant to go, as you have suggested, but even though it hasn’t been bunching up, I still somehow I ended up with 334 stitches, which I noticed only after I realized how much bulkier rows 11 – 15 looked compared to the rest of the scarf, which only has 253 stitches. I’ll need to undo my work again and try again, but would you happen to have any idea where I might have gone wrong?
Thank you so much for your time and I hope you’re enjoying warm and happy holidays!
Kirsten says
I have no idea where you’re going off in your stitch counts. Each section of the diamond should take up 4 stitches: the 3 sc and then the skipped stitch where the tr2tog sits. Maybe if you keep track of that number things will go smoother?
Kelly says
hi.
is the a video tutorial for this scarf please.? I love the look of it
Kirsten says
There is not. I only have written instructions.
Grace says
Hello! I am wondering how many yards of yarn I will need to make this super scarf? I have started 2 projects and ran out of yarn so want to make sure I have enough of the same lot before I begin. What yarn do you suggest using and how much would I need? (I haven’t figgured out how to calculate this based on the guage yet)
Kirsten says
Hi Grace,
All of that information is listed in the “Materials Needed” section above the pattern. 🙂
Sara says
So I just finished the pattern and love it so much I decided to keep going and make a blanket, however row 21 is worked into the right side so wouldn’t that mean I’d start over on row 4 instead of 5 so that my next row is worked into the wrong side?
Kirsten says
You might need to change things up a little if you are making a blanket. If starting your repeat on row 4 works better go with that. I have not tested the blanket pattern idea. Maybe I will get to in the future! 🙂
Sara says
Ok I’ve repeated rows 4 thru 8 and so far it’s looking right! Thanks so much for the pattern it really is gorgeous!
Kirsten says
You’re welcome! I’m glad that repeat is working out for you!
Rachael Henderson says
I watched the video (should have before but assumed I read it right lol) and I did work then the wrong side… So frogging I go
Danielle Krizka says
Where did you find a video for this? I’m getting stuck on row 11 starting the diamond pattern in the scarf.
Kirsten says
You can find a tutorial video of the Diamond stitch here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUl5SLtNRDo I hope that helps!
Kirsten says
Hi Saba,
You’re welcome! I only provide a written pattern and do not have a chart of the design at this time.
Hanne says
Hi! Love the pattern, absolutely beautiful!
Kirsten says
Thank you, Hanne!
Kim says
Hi, I read where you say the pattern is a 12+1, but I think I’m missing something. The original instructions say chain 254…and that would be a 12+2. I’m lost. Help!
Kirsten says
It’s described in the additional notes section as 12 + 1 (plus one for the turning chain). That’s where you get your extra stitch. 🙂
Tina says
If I want to make this scarf 7 ft. long, how many chains do I start with?
Thank you!
Kirsten says
Hi Tina,
The gauge is listed in the pattern notes and so is the multiple. Here’s how you figure it out: take the gauge information (11 sts in 4″) and multiply 11 by 3 to get the number of stitches in 12 in (1 ft): 33. Since the fringe adds a whole ft onto each end, and you want a 7 ft scarf, subtract 2. This will give you 5 ft for the actual scarf length. Multiply 33 stitches x 5 ft, and you’ll end up with 165. This is not a multiple of 12, so the closest number that is a multiple of 12 is 168. Add 1 ch for for the +1, and then 1 more chain for the turning chain. This will give you a starting chain of 170 for a 7 ft long scarf (7 ft includes the 12″ fringe ends).
Another thing to note, if you want to leave the fringe off the original scarf it will end up being about 7 ft long.
I hope that info helps!
Tina says
Thank you so much! I can’t wait to get started!
Kirsten says
You’re welcome! 😁
Joyce says
I must be an idiot, I have started this scarf 4 times now getting as far as row 11 once. Now I’m struggling to get past row 6 with my correct count, I seem to have 4 extra stitches now and it’s been that way the last 3 times.
Kirsten says
I’m not completely sure what’s going on either. Rows 6 and 6 are the shell stitch, and row 6 has 2 half shells, one on each end with only 3 dc in them. If you’re putting 5 dc in the end shells that could possibly be how you’re ending up with 4 extra stitches.
Joyce says
Thanks for your reply, I figured it out. Now I’m having the same problem with row 11 as I’ve seen previously. I was so careful of my count since rows 5 and 6 that I know I worked into the correct third loop but row 11 is going to be on the wrong side if I continue. I’m about ready to give up, this has been one of the most frustrating things I’ve ever crocheted and I’ve been doing this for almost 20 years.
Kirsten says
I’m sorry to hear you’re having so much trouble figuring it out. Work in the 3rd loop on the opposite side of the stitch than you just did and all the texture should come out on the proper side.
Heidi says
I’m having the same wrong side problem with row 11. I’ve gone back and decided the only way I can fix it is to add a row of single crochet as row 10. Where do you think I went wrong?
Kirsten says
You were probably working into the wrong side of the stitch if your ridge showed up on the wrong side. To fix it, redo the 3rd loop row working in the opposite side from what you did before.
Zac says
First off I want to say that this pattern looks absolutely beautiful. Second, this is my first time doing a bit more advanced pattern but I’m bound and determined to make it. Im currently stuck on Row 5. When you say to do 5 dc are you meaning to do 5dc into the same stitch? Cause I guess I’m confused on if I do a set of 5 dc, each in their own stitch, skip two stitches, do a slip stitch, skip 2 stitches and do another set of 5 dc again in their own set stitches.
Kirsten says
Hi Zac,
Yes, you will be doing 5 dc into the same stitch. ???? If you have not done the shell stitch before you may wish to search YouTube for a tutorial on how this stitch is made. The other stitch that you must be comfortable doing is the Diamond Stitch. This is what makes the pattern more intermediate/advanced. Here is a video tutorial for that stitch: https://youtu.be/nUl5SLtNRDo
I’m glad you like the design, and hope the above info helps you successfully finish this project!
Kim says
How can I upload a photo to show you the 2 scarves(and matching snow hats) I made with this fantastic pattern?!
Kirsten says
Head on over to Ravelry and add it as a project to this listing (there should be a “Hook it! Project” button you can click to start the process):
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/snow-country-super-scarf
I look forward to seeing the pictures!
Suzanne Gorter says
You mentioned adaptations for a hooded scarf. Where are they available, I am interested in making that version.
Kirsten says
Fold the finished scarf in half, texture side out and sew the two bottom sides at the center of the fold 12-15 inches or however deep you need the hood to be. This will create a “pocket” you can use for a hood. Hope that helps!
Onikka says
OMG…I guess I’m not as advanced as I thought I was…I got to row 11 and I am a little stumped. Do I put the sc in the 9th row or in the top of the 10th row?
Kirsten says
This video from Hopeful Honey on how to crochet the Diamond Stitch may help you figure out what’s going on here. 🙂
https://youtu.be/nUl5SLtNRDo
Christina says
So is row 5 supposed to be decreasing? It seems weird it’s all pulling and not staying flat. But I don’t see anything that says to chain one or two after each dc or slip stitch. Am I doing this wrong?
Kirsten says
You will be making shells in this row so the 5 dc in a single stitch should create a nice half-circle that should lay flat. If you’ve never worked the shell stitch before there are some good YouTube videos that show how to do it. 🙂 I hope that helps!
Christina says
Wow that was a fast response! Thanks I figured out I just can’t read! It say FIVE dc’s. I read it 20 times and am only now recognizing the five part!
Kirsten says
Yay! I’m glad you got it figured out! ????
Whitney says
Wow beautiful scarf! I’m only a beginner at crocheting do you ever sale these? I’d love to buy a few from you for Christmas gifts!
Kirsten says
Hi Whitney,
I don’t make these but I have a friend who runs an Etsy shop who does very nice work https://www.etsy.com/shop/FiatFiberArts Please let her know the name of the pattern you want crocheted, and my site name when you message her and she should be able to quote you a price. 🙂
Darcie says
Hi, I am making this scarf and I’m loving the pattern, but I am confused about row 11. I have made a FPtr around the second sc of row 9, and three sc on top of row 10 as my row 11. For the next FPtr do I take the sc used for the first post as “1”, miss two sc from row 9 and make the next pot around sc “4”, or take the sc used as the first post as “1”, miss three and make the next post around the fourth sc, which would essentially be “5”? If that makes sense? I did it the first way initially and it did seem to be working, but I worried that I was misreading the pattern and would mess it up for later rows.
Kirsten says
Hi Darcie,
The first way you mentioned sounds correct to me! Good luck on the rest of the scarf!
JessiRae says
Is there anyway to make this scarf and it not be so wide? I’d love to make this for my husband but he’s very picky and doesn’t want a scarf much wider than 4 or 5 inches.
Kirsten says
Due to the textured stitches the pattern would look drastically different if you tried to omit rows. You could potentially try to make this with a 4mm hook, sport weight yarn, and increase the length using the multiples I’ve provided. That would make it narrower. The texture wouldn’t be quite as prominent however, when using the finer weight yarn.
Leelee says
Hi Kristen,
I love your pattern and can’t wait to get started! However, I’m making it for my Brother-in-law and he’s 7′ tall (no joke)! I’m thinking I’d like to make it even longer; how many stiches would I need to increase the foundation chain and by approximately how much would it increase the length? I don’t expect you to figure out the precise length for me, but knowing in advance how many stitches for each pattern repeat would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in Advance!!
Kirsten says
Hi Leelee,
This scarf is worked in multiples of 12+1, plus 1 for the beginning chain (that info is listed in the “Additional Notes” section for easy reference). You can use my gauge information (11 hdc or sc stitches in 4″) to figure out roughly how many stitches are in a foot and calculate from there. 🙂 All the information you need to do this should already be included in the information listed before the pattern instructions. ???? Good luck on the adjustments!
Leelee says
Thank you!
Lorna says
This is exactly the information I was going to ask! Thank goodness I scrolled through the comments first!
Kirsten says
I’m glad you found the answers to your question! 🙂
Shamra says
I’ve been asked to make this for a friend. Fingers are crossed that I’m advanced enough to achieve such a stunning scarf! However, I’ve scrolled from top to bottom, bottom to top at least five times and simply can not find the link to click for the pattern. He won’t mind paying for a PDF file but would you please highlight for others and myself the exact link for the free copy? I’ve read all the comments and feel downright foolish that I am apparently overlooking it.
Thanks!
Kirsten says
Shamra,
The pattern is written out on the page, shortly after the “materials needed” and “stitches used” sections. 🙂 It is not downloadable as a separate file on my website, however I’ve just added the option to purchase a print friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/snow-country-super-scarf
I hope that clears up any confusion! Good luck making it!
Stephanie says
I love this scarf and can’t wait until I’m finished!
However, I am confused on row 11. Am I supposed to be working on the wrong side? I got to this point before and then took it apart and started over and I’m still getting the same thing!
Kirsten says
Hi Stephanie, row 11 should be worked on the right side. You’re going to be working on two different rows at the same time as you make your post stitches, but all should be on the front. ????
Jaclyn says
I’m having the same problem. After completing all 10 rows the 11th row starts on the wrong side… The only way I figured to correct this is take out row 9, don’t do a row of sc stitches but rather jump into the dc stitches, so row 11 ends up on the right side.
Kirsten says
Jaclyn, try looking at this video to see if the stitch makes more sense: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUl5SLtNRDo 🙂
Linda says
I dont understand row 11, you have to do a FPtr in the second sc of row 9. I understand this part.
But than you have to make the second FPtr of the FPtr2tog in the 4th sc of row 9. But the patern says you have to skip 3 sc. Than you have to make the second FPtr of the FPtr2tog in the 5 sc in row or start with the first FPtr in de first sc in row 9.
I hope you understand my problem.
Kirsten says
Hi Linda, You are working on two different rows here. If you don’t understand how the diamond stitch works, try watching the video I linked in the additional notes section. It will really save you a lot of confusion and frustration! 🙂
Linda says
Thank you 🙂 Row 11 is finished 😀
Kirsten says
Yay! I’m so glad to hear that!
Kim says
I cannot find a link ANYWHERE on this page…I am stuck on row 11. I’m left handed. I cannot figure out this diamond stitch at all. Can you please post a link? Or I will be forced to RIP this all out and do a completely different scarf and I really wanted to do this one.
Kirsten says
Hi Kim, I’m sorry you’re having a hard time. Try this video. It’s right handed, but it may give you an idea of what is supposed to be going on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUl5SLtNRDo You may also try searching for “crochet diamond stitch left hand” to see if any left-handed tutorials come up. I hope that helps!
Kim says
Thank you soo much!! I appreciate this more than you know! I just love this scarf!!
Kirsten says
You’re welcome! 😀
Kate Abbott says
Well, I’ve searched up and down, on the scarf and the hat, but I can’t find a print link!
Kirsten says
There isn’t a link to print patterns on this site. I do offer printable, ad-free PDFs of some of my patterns on Ravelry, but because the hat uses part of another designers pattern for the top part, I cannot offer it in a PDF. I’ll work on getting the scarf PDF put together next week and get it uploaded to Ravelry though. 🙂
Kate says
On March 12th, when Judy asked how to get the free pattern, you said “Keep scrolling down the page and you should see it, Judy. ???? I promise it’s there!”. What did that mean?
Kirsten says
The instructions for the bottom part of the hat are in my website. Keep scrolling down the page to get to them. You will see them written out on the site.
Aparna says
Hi, I love this pattern, thank you.
Row 4 and 6 gives a texture. I see the row 11 front posts give the texture on the wrong side of the scarf ( not on the side r4 and 6 ) but in the picture the textures are on the same side. Where am I going wrong? The textures should be created by even rows right?
Kirsten says
Hi Aparna,
The only thing I can think of is that maybe you might be working in the wrong 3rd loop. You’ll be working in the 3rd loop that is at the back of the stitch, however, once you turn, that loop will be facing you. Hopefully that helps!
Aparna says
Thank you! Oh yes, I confused the third stitch, I watched the video and it’s now clear. ????
Kirsten says
Wonderful! I’m glad you got it figured out!
Ethan says
I’m not sure I’m understand. I have the same problem, but I am working into the back. And
The video shows how to work in the third HDC in the front. What am I missing??
Kirsten says
When working in rows, the back of the hdc stitch is facing you. 🙂
Michelle says
Is there a sc in 3rd loop row missing after row 17? Before the shells row? This pattern is beautiful. I can’t wait to show you my scarf!
Kirsten says
Oops! Sorry about that! My original Row 18 must have had a rebellious streak and skipped town. I’ve put him back in his place. 😉 I’m glad you like the scarf! I can’t wait to see yours!
JCqueline says
Hello,
This Is a beautiful pattern. Can you please tell me how to shorten it without using the beautiful detail? I’m only 5ft 1 in.
Thank you
Jacqueline
Kirsten says
Hi Jacqueline,
The pattern is worked in multiples of 12+1 (listed in the additional notes section).
Something that may help you make a more informed decision on what length you’d like: My kiddo modeling it was about 5 feet tall at the time the pictures were taken. 🙂
Judy says
Please help me to get this free pattern. I don’t see where to click to get the pattern. You said it was
free.
Kirsten says
Keep scrolling down the page and you should see it, Judy. 🙂 I promise it’s there!
Tiff says
Hi, i love this pattern! However after row 11 I did dc in each stitch across and my stitch count has gone up by about a third! I don’t know what I’m doing wrong! Should I not be dc-ing in every stitch?
Please help!
Tiff
Kirsten says
Hi Tiff, are you remembering to skip the stitch where the FPtr goes in row 11? If you’re not skipping that spot it could make your stitch count increase by 1/3 in row 12. I hope that helps!
Kim says
I’ve had that same problem! Have redone that row twice, trying to figure out where I’m going wrong. Finally decided to read these comments, and have discovered that I too, am not skipping a stitch. Never really occurred to me that I needed to. Now it makes sense!
Mihaela says
It’s beautiful!! Well done and thank you for the pattern!
Sheila Ralston says
Beautiful scarf, thanks for sharing! Would it be possible to see a picture of what the reverse side looks like?
Kirsten says
You’re welcome, Sheila! I’m glad you like it! The back side is plain and texture free. 🙂
I’ve uploaded a picture of the scarf by itself which shows a little sliver of the back.