Bunny Legs Scarf

Just in time for Easter, I hope my Bunny Legs scarf is the next project to hop on your crochet hook! The amazing softness of the Bernat Pipsqueak yarn makes you feel like you are touching an actual bunny! It’s so fun to make and even more fun to wear. The length can be easily adjusted for both children and adults to enjoy! “Hoppy” crocheting!!!

Crochet Bunny Scarf

Bunny Legs Scarf

This scarf pattern is written for an adult-size scarf meant to fit most adults (and older children/teens). It can easily be into a children’s scarf by making it shorter in length. The length can be adjusted by adding or subtracting rows from the body of the scarf.

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FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

White (Middle/Main Body) Section: 2¾ inches wide x 36 inches long (before assembly of scarf)

Foot: 7½ inches wide at the widest part (from left toe to right toe) x 10 inches long (from top of middle toe to bottom of heel)

Total Scarf Measurements:  Approximately 2¾ inches wide (white middle section) x 50 inches long (from top of middle toe of one foot to top of middle toe of opposite foot)

 

MATERIALS

– Size K/10.5/6.50mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

– Size H/8/5.00mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge


– Bulky weight (5) fuzzy yarn in White (I used Bernat Pipsqueak yarn in Whitey White.) *Requires 2 skeins

– Worsted weight (4) yarn in Pink (I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Light Raspberry.)

– Worsted weight (4) yarn in Grey (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn in Silver Grey.)

– Scissors

– Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends, sewing the paw pads to the paws, and stitching the toe spaces (lines) of the paws)

– Measuring tape

Optional Items:

– Stitch markers (if needed for counting/marking stitches)

– Straight pins (if needed to hold the paw pads in place when sewing them down)

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– ch = chain

– chs = chains

– dc = double crochet

– sc = single crochet

– sk = skip

– slst = slip stitch

– st = stitch

– sts = stitches

– tc = triple crochet


GAUGE

Main Body of Scarf (with 6.50 mm hook and bulky weight yarn): 5 dc = 2 inches; 4 rows = 3 inches

 

PATTERN NOTES

  • The white main body (middle section) of the scarf is made first in rows of double crochet. You can lengthen or shorten the scarf as needed by adding or deleting rows.
  • The first double crochet stitch of each row is always done in the same stitch as the chain 2 unless otherwise stated (the chain-2 does not count as a stitch, so don’t skip the first stitch of the row).
  • Each paw is made with two separate (congruent) pieces (the top of the paw and the bottom of the paw) that are sewn together.
  • The pink paw pads on the bottom of the paws are each made in the round using a magic ring.

 

DIRECTIONS

Main Body of Scarf

* Use a 6.50 mm hook and your white fuzzy yarn to create the main body of the scarf.

Row 1: With your white bulky weight yarn, ch 9, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.

Rows 2–41: Ch 2, turn, dc in each st across.

 

**At the end of Row 41 (your last row), fasten off and weave in loose ends.

 

***You should now have the main body of your scarf complete. Next, follow the directions below to make and attach the bunny feet. You will complete the following directions twice for each side of the scarf.

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Bunny Paw (Make 2)

* Use a size 6.50 mm hook and your white fuzzy yarn to create the paw. The paw will have a top side and bottom side that will be sewn together, so you need to make 2 paws for each side of the scarf.

 

Row 1: Ch 5, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.

Row 2: Ch 2, turn, 2 dc in first st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn, dc in each st across.

Row 4: Ch 2, turn, 2 dc in first st, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st.

Row 5: Ch 2, turn, dc in each st across.

Row 6: Ch 2, turn, 2 dc in first st, dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st.

Row 7: Ch 2, turn, dc in each st across.

Row 8: Ch 2, turn, 2 dc in first st, dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next st.

Row 9: Ch 2, turn, dc in each st across.

Row 10: Ch 2, turn, 2 dc in first st, dc in next 9 sts, 2 dc in next st.

Row 11: Ch 2, turn, dc in each st across.

Row 12: Ch 2, turn, 2 dc in first st, dc in next 11 sts, 2 dc in next st.

Row 13: Ch 2, turn, dc in first st, tc in next 3 sts, dc in next st, slst in next st, ch 2, dc in same st as slst, tc in next 3 sts, dc in next st, slst in next st, ch 2, dc in same st as slst, tc in next 3 sts, (dc, slst) in next st.

Row 14: Ch 2, turn, sk slst, dc in first st, 2 tc in next st, tc in next st, 2 tc in next st, dc in next st, slst to slst from Row 13, dc in next st, 2 tc in next st, tc in next st, 2 tc in next st, dc in next st, slst to slst from Row 13, dc in next st, 2 tc in next st, tc in next st, 2 tc in next st, (dc, slst) in next st.

 

***At the end of Row 14, fasten off, and leave a really long tail on one of your two paws for sewing them together later. Leave a short tail on the other paw that you can weave in later. You will use these tails as a reference so let them hang loose for now. The paw with the long tail will be the top of the paw and other paw (the paw with the short tail) will be the bottom of the paw.

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***Follow the directions below for making the round pink paw pads that will be attached to the bottom of the paw.

 

PAW PADS

*Use a size 5.00 mm hook and your worsted weight pink yarn to make the paw pads. You will need to make three of the small toe paw pads and one large paw pad.

**The paw pads are made in the round using a magic ring/magic circle.

 

Small Toe Paw Pad (Make 3)

*The small toe pads are made in continuous rounds. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch.

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc in magic ring, pull ring closed.

Round 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts.

Round 3: 2 sc in first 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts.

Round 4: 2 sc in first 4 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next 4 sts, sc in last 2 sts, slst to next st (first st of round), fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing onto the paw.

 

*Make sure to pull the magic ring closed and weave in/secure end at closure.

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Large Paw Pad (Make 1)

*The large paw pad is made in joined rounds. Join the last stitch of a round to the first stitch of the same round with a slip stitch. Make the first stitch of each round in the same stitch as the slip stitch and ch-1.

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, work 8 sc in magic ring, pull ring closed, join to first st with a slst.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 dc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, join to first st with a slst.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next 2sts, sc in next 2 sts, join to first st with a slst.

Round 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 2 dc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, join to first st with a slst.

Round 5: Ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, dc in next st, 2 dc in next 4 sts, dc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, join to first st with a slst, fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing onto the paw.

 

*Make sure to pull the magic ring closed and weave in/secure end at closure.

 

**You should now have 3 small toe pads and one large paw pad. Follow the directions below to attach them to the bottom of the paw.

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Attaching the Paw Pads (Bottom of Paw)

Remember that the paw pads will be attached to the bottom of the paw (the paw with the short tail you let hang loose). Lay the bottom of the paw flat with the toes up, heel down, and make sure the tail is on the top left. The side facing up is the side to which you will attach the paw pads.

 

Once you have determined the correct side of the correct paw to which you need to attach the paw pads, use your tapestry needle and the tails you left on the pads to attach/sew each one to the bottom of the paw. Weave in and secure all ends on the bottom of the paw.

 

**You should now have the bottom of the paw complete with all four paw pads attached/sewn in place and all loose ends secured. Follow the directions below to complete the top of the paw.

 

Stitching the Toe Spaces (Top of Paw)

The toe spaces are the lines that separate the toes. There are two toe spaces. Each one separates the middle toe from an end toe. The toe spaces will be made on the top of the paw (the paw with the long tail you let hang loose). Lay the top of the paw flat with the toes up, heel down, and make sure the tail is on the top right. The side facing up is the side to which you will stitch the toe spaces.

 

Once you have determined the correct side of the correct paw on which you need to stitch the toe spaces, use your tapestry needle and grey yarn to backstitch a line for each. The lines should each be about 2 inches long. Once you finish, if you are happy with the way both toe lines/spaces look, secure your yarn and knot it in place on the back side for both.

 

**You should now have the top of the paw complete with both toe spaces/lines sewn in place. You should still have the long tail on the top of the paw so you can use it when sewing the top and bottom of the paw together. Follow the directions below to begin assembling the paw and attaching it to the main body of the scarf.

 

PAW ASSEMBLY

  1. Place the top of the paw directly on top of the bottom of the paw so that the right sides of each are on the outside (the toe spaces face up and the paw pads face down) and the back sides are on the inside. The long tail left on the top of the paw should be on the top right if you are holding them so the toes are up and heel is down.

 

  1. Thread the long tail from the top of the paw through your tapestry needle and begin to sew the top of the paw to the bottom of the paw along their perimeters working in the direction of the toes first (sew the three toes together first and then start working down one side of the paw). Once you get about two-thirds of the way down the first side of the paw, stop so you can insert a side of the scarf and begin attaching the paw to the scarf.

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  1. Insert one end of the main scarf body between the two heels of each paw piece you are sewing together (it should be sandwiched between the two back sides of each paw piece). Line it up so the end of the scarf becomes flush with the width of the paw. This should be at about the top of Row 5 of each paw piece (this is because the scarf is 7 stitches wide and Row 5 of the paw is 7 stitches wide). You may want to pin the scarf to the paw pieces so it stays in place while you sew it all together.

 

  1. After you have positioned your scarf where you want it***, continue sewing the two paw pieces together along the perimeter, making sure to go through all layers with your needle when you reach the end of the scarf (top paw piece, scarf, and bottom paw piece). Sew the heels of the paw pieces together carefully with the scarf, trying to make sure they are evenly matched up on both sides of the scarf as you sew around. Continue sewing the pieces together up the other side of the paw until you reach where you started.

 

***The following note is for when you are repeating all the directions again to make the second paw for the opposite end of your scarf. Disregard if you are following the directions for the first paw of your scarf.

***When attaching the second paw to the other end of the scarf, make sure to position the paw in the direction you would like it to be when you wear it in relation to the first paw.

  1. Once you have sewn the paw pieces completely together, weave in and secure your yarn.

You should now have one side of your scarf complete with a paw attached. Repeat the previous directions (starting with the directions for the bunny paw) to create the second paw and complete the other side of the scarf.

Once you have attached and secured your second paw to the other end of your scarf, you are finished and your bunny legs scarf is ready to wear!

 

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